WIND PROTECTION FOR VEGETABLES

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Latest Breaking News - Home Improvement - Viewing: Wind Protection For Vegetables

2009-06-25


To divide the ground from that of one's neighbor and to give sonic protection from cold winds, a hedge should be planted or a fence erected on the side of the prevailing wind. In Britain this is usually from the north-cast or south-west, the former bringing the cold winds of early spring which may cause considerable damage by 'burning' or browning the foliage of plants. It is therefore on the north and east side that the land must be given protection and the best method is to erect a fence 5-6 feet tall of wattle hurdles or interwoven fencing. The latter is slightly more expensive but has greater durability.

Osier hurdles may be obtained from Farman's of North Walsham, Norfolk and from others in the area. Light to handle, they may be erected around those plants requiring wind protection such as sweet corn or the taller growing outdoor tomatoes. This is done by driving stout stakes into the ground and tying the hurdles to them. Used in this way, a permanent fence is not essential. Interwoven or overlap fencing panels, made to any height and usually in 6 feet or 2 meter lengths, are obtainable from Larch Lap Limited of Stourport-on-Severn; E.C. Cases of Taffs Well, Glamorgan; and Coates of Bridgwater; whilst most country gardeners will be able to purchase the panels made by local craftsmen, possibly to one's exact requirements.

Permanent fencing should be made secure, so that strong winds cannot cause movement which would distort the panels, of 1 en resulting in breakage. Fix the panels to 3 inch by 4 inch stakes, driven well into the ground and if the soil is of a sandy nature, it will be advisable to cement the stakes in. A well constructed fence will give years of valuable wind protection but a fence carelessly erected will cause only trouble, requiring constant attention. Against the fence, facing south or west, cordon gooseberries may be planted or runner beans grown up laths which may rest on top of the fence. Tomatoes may also be grown close to the fence and other tall growing plants and those crops requiring concentrated sunlight for their ripening. The value of fencing in comparison to a hedge of privet or beech is that the ground may be utilized right up to the fence and every inch used, whereas with a hedge, planting cannot be done nearer than about 3 feet. A fence will also require no further attention when once it has been erected; neither will it take up moisture and nourishment from the soil which is better employed by the vegetables.

A fence may be erected on three sides of the vegetable plot, which is usually the case where the plot is sited at the end of the garden, divided from the rest of the garden by a trellis or rustic screen covered with roses or clematis. It will be advantageous to place a row of frames sloping gently towards the south and 4 to 5 feet from the end of the plot so that the frames may receive the maximum amount of sunlight whilst the lights when not in use, may be reared over those crops growing against the fence and requiring protection from late frosts. Sufficient room must be allowed for the removal of the frame lights which will rest against the back frame hoards when open. And a path must be made along the front of the frames to enable them to be reached for watering and ventilation. A path made of brick or paving stones will be both permanent and clean to use.


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